Never has an island burger been sought after with more eager anticipation than this offering from Edge Restaurant in Sooke. I first heard of it just over a year ago, and have been aggravatingly close to making the trip to Sooke countless times since then. So you can imagine the wave of boyish glee that came over me when a former bakery baroness from my past offered me a ride to EdGe, along with her shadowy real-estate photographer friend.
Now is where I'd try to place this burger review in some sort of hackneyed murder-mysteryesque plot line if I had any energy, but I don't, so I'm just going to review this thing and you can make up your own story (involve Perry Mason if you can).
If nothing else, Chef Edward Tuson, formerly of Sooke Harbour House, is an innovator in the realm of burger geometry. With this offering from EdGe, he's created the first one of triangular shape I've ever encountered (a friend who is a sheet metal worker gave him the mould). Aside from being interesting to look at, I'm not sure the triangle shape lends much to this package.
If anything, the need for the patty to be elongated in order to fit the bun from 6-Mile Bakery may hurt this unit. The combination of toppings, along with the thin patty, make this package behave more like a sandwich than a burger. Shredded lettuce, unmelted swiss cheese, and housemade pickles and salami (housemade bacon would usually adorn this unit, but I suppose Tuson's pigs are still growing) are the main culprits in creating the confusion. I suppose it's good to be challenged by a burger every once in a while, but I really went in expecting instant gratification, and that's not what came.
What appeared to my tongue to be a cumin-heavy, Indian inspired spice blend in the patty dominated the flavour of the burger as a whole. In this sense, it was actually somewhat similar in taste to what Sauce offer. The spicing of the patty made the beef behave a little like large crumbs bonded together by just a little fat. It was fine, but I was expecting something with a bolder impact.
Though I wasn't bowled over by this burger, its construction easily showcased Tuson's skill as a chef. Pull a pickle out of this package and eat it separately and you'll notice an intense sweet, vinegary flavour. When mingling with the other ingredients though, the pickles surprisingly lack dominance. This is an obvious example of the chef's ability to balance strong flavours.
Maybe I was just so worked up about this one that I couldn't appreciate it properly. A second date could prove to be a different experience, but on first pass this one wasn't worth the sleepless nights. I expected at least one person in our group to scream out, "THIS IS THE BEST BURGER I'VE EVER HAD!" and that never happened. Oh well, at least the soup was great.
VERDICT: A really nice sandwich, but only manages to be good as a burger. Good works elsewhere, but a chef such as Tuson is capable of better.