Wednesday, August 25, 2010

Blue Fox Cafe | 919 Fort Street | 250.380.1683

Gourmet Beef Burger
$12



Sometime around. . . ohhhhhh I don't know when, everyone and their dog (dogs barbecue A LOT) started using a BBQ sauce/chipotle mayo condiment mix on their burgers. When I say everyone, I mean an overwhelming number of local restaurants. This has, as many regular readers know, caused much kvetching from yours truly. That's why it's so nice to see a place finally get the mix right.

The green apple BBQ sauce and smoky chipotle mayo in this package cavort together in a way I never knew possible. These condiments compliment each other superbly, and never overwhelm the rest of the unit, as other BBQ sauce/chipotle mixes so often do. The placement of the BBQ sauce is key here, as it is lovingly tucked underneath a blanket of smokehouse bacon, and cheddar and Monterrey jack cheeses. The cheeses are melted to the point where they almost look baked, and their placement helps keep things in check. Apple and cheese flavours go together better than apple and bun: this BBQ sauce wouldn't have the same impact if it was just lingering on the sidelines.

As for the stumpy cracked wheat bun—it's not nearly as atrocious a match for a burger as you'd expect it to be. It may be a little small for the patty that busts out from beneath it, but at least it's fresh and chewy.

The patty itself has a texture and taste that suggest Blue Fox ain't shy with the salt. The strands of beef are not visible as individuals here, but instead form a tight unit that emanates sausagey flavour undertones. The patty does not lean strongly to the flavour of any one seasoning though. Instead it is supported by the comforting, greasy flavour all burgers should have. It's no juice-bomb, but the obvious glut of salt doesn't desertify this lean beef either.

As the flavours and textures intertwine, what you get at Blue Fox is an interesting amalgamation of both pub and hippie styles. Essentially the cafe has tinkered with pub-style just enough to create a burger that overcomes the banality of that genre, without getting too daisies in the barrel about it. Good job.

VERDICT: Blue Fox has single-handedly proven the BBQ sauce/chipotle mayo trend worthwhile. It takes a pretty good burger to do that.

1 comment:

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