Wednesday, June 10, 2009

Local Kitchen (or is it Bar and Grill?) | 1205 Wharf Street | 250•385•1999

Bacon Cheeseburger
$14



I was really expecting this burger to suck like a jet engine, but it's surprisingly decent—forgive me if I don't expect much from a restaurant that caters to tourists and has the word "Local" in its title. This restaurant does feature locally sourced ingredients (and local beers) on its menu, but—given the location of this place—the moniker still seems a little contrived to me. Is the name "Local Kitchen" really tricking tourists into thinking this restaurant has built up a successful report with Victoria diners? I mean you might as well call the place "Hometown Haunt Bar and Grill" and name all your appetizers after street names and local luminaries. Anyway, I apologise for judging this place so harshly before actually giving it a try; the burger here is not nearly as boring as the name of this place would suggest it is.

Here's the review:

Shortly after my burger came to the table I noticed what appeared to be a fleck of fennel idling on the bun. I didn't notice the flavour of fennel in this package, but there was definitely something slightly different about the way the patty was spiced (a house mixture that is more than salt and pepper, but still subtle enough that it won't annoy you). The bun in this package is quite thin, and is barely noticeable in terms of flavour. I won't say this is a bad thing, it just makes things a tad confusing when an uncultured foodie like me is trying to determine where flavours are coming from. A more substantial bun may have balanced things out a little better, but the current choice doesn't degrade this unit too much.

The patty is topped with Applewood Cheddar and some well-balanced bacon: the fatty edges of the bacon delightfully dissolve on your tongue like the centre of a Fizz-Pop candy. Veges are fresh, and are mixed with a traditional aioli style house sauce: nothing wrong with the helpers here. This burger is infinitely better than what's being served up across the street at Wharfside, and it probably just edges out the option across the square at Darcy's. There are a number of pub burgers I'd place above the burger at "Local", but it's still not a bad option if you're looking for a decent pub burger downtown.

VERDICT: A surprisingly pleasant burger at a price that hasn't been inflated nearly as much as you would expect it to be.

11 comments:

Grocery Alerts Canada said...

Nice review. I had a salad there last year.

I like reading the reviews (at least seeing the pictures) before going out to eat.

Great research!

Coffee Expert said...

Saw your review in the T.C. this AM.
I do the coffeecrew.com website locally - and its blog.

Wondering how to earn some income on your writing? Start by getting your own domain name and webhosting and ditching blogspot - it gives you more control of what you want to do.
Google-links? Forget about it... pennies on the dollar and you are merely filling googles pockets.

dk said...

@Coffee Expert

do you make anything from the donations button on your page?

Honestly I'm not that concerned with making this blog make money. Also I'm not really sure whether or not it could generate more than a few hundred bucks a year.

michelle said...

Hey, have you tried a burger at the Fernwood Inn on Gladstone? I don't remember the name of the burger I had there, but it had smoked paprika aioli on it and I swear it was the best I ever had. Awesome bun. They had a chef working there. I hope he still works there.
Cheers! Loved your guys' articles in the Nexus!

dk said...

@michelle

I haven't had a burger at the Fernwood recently, but I have been there before. It's aight.

Anonymous said...

Not sure what your summer plans are but you should take a road trip to Tofino, not for the surfing but the burgers at Shelter.
I'm not sure if it was just so delicious because i'd been hiking all day and was starving, or if it is just an amazing burger. Definitely better than anything in Victoria.
(Another notable there is the Grice Chicken burger but you are kinda all about the beef.)

http://www.shelterrestaurant.com/lunch.html

Coffee Expert said...

Ad and sponsorship dollars from last year got us a trip to Hawaii.

It comes down to traffic and google ranking. The CoffeeCrew website averages about 10,000 hits/day... that is about 1000 unique viewers/day.
The blog (coffee.bc.ca) is now about 3/4 of that traffic. Keep in mind: I have been doing this a long time - I first launched my website in 1995. Now that is internet OLD - want more details? E-Mail me... and we can do coffee!

Koekkener said...

Its really a awesome burger. I hope that I can have one for my snacks. Thank you for sharing.

Lisa Morrison said...

Found this review while poking around and doing some research for a project, and felt compelled to reply as one of those blasted tourists who clog the streets of your beautiful city.

For what it's worth, I never once thought of the name "Local Kitchen" as meaning it was a place where locals hang out. I took it as a kitchen that emphasizes local ingredients.

Interestingly, though, when my husband and I wandered in one November afternoon, Local Kitchen was packed with, you got it, locals. Very friendly ones at that!

Thanks for the review. I will try the burger next time. Was very impressed with the local beer selection!

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