Friday, April 17, 2009

Roxy Burger—910 Granville Street—Vancouver—604•646•4000—www.roxyburger.com

The Canadian Roxy Burger
$11



It's no secret that Vancouver is years ahead of Victoria as far as burger culture goes. They have a well established regional chain, they were the first West Coast Canadian city to embrace the fancy burger trend, and they were one of the first Canadian cities to get a Fatburger. Yes burger culture has seeped into Vancouver quite nicely over the last decade. Even the bar/club scene has managed to co-opt the burger: turning it into an accessory as sought after as headbands, tattoos, or whatever the fuck else people that go to clubs wear.


Since its inception seven years, Roxy Burger has managed to command a fair bit of clout. It's never rated as high as Vera's or Moderne—but many locals still mention it as one of their favourites. The walls in Roxy Burger are plastered with self-promotional posters screaming with the type of fonts you'd find on handbills for a 24-hour rave in Chilliwack. Given the glossy nature of the bar and its patrons—it was a tad surprisinging to find a fairly humble burger at this place.

"The Canadian" comes with half a pound of beef, expertly melted cheese, and decent bacon. The condiment mix is somewhat akin to A&W (mustard, ketchup, mayo) and the bun is a slightly above average kaiser. The ketchup was a tad distracting, but the special mayo here is nice and thick—with a flavour not unlike what you'd find at White Spot (just minus whatever reddening agent is in Triple O Sauce). The beef is good, but it lacks juiciness. Ultimately the patty probably sits somewhere in the middle of the pack as far as burger-centric restaurant packages in Vancouver go.

Roxy Burger is one of those places that claims everything it does is famous (even the fucking "pickle sail" it spears through its burger buns). How the fuck does a pickle become world famous? Is Seth Rogen actually just one big Roxy Burger pickle sail with curly hair? My dad used to call his salmon and peas on toast world famous, but that was only because we had international students living with us.

Despite the hackey claims of being "world famous"—this is a pretty good burger. The ketchup does give the unit a slightly upscale fast-food flavour, but the freshness of the package leaves you thinking you've walked away with a little more. There are other burgers in Vancouver I would recommend over this one, but its still a decent bet if you're in a pinch downtown.

VERDICT: Roxy Burger just slightly surpasses the middling experience "world famous" usually indicates.

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