Saturday, March 28, 2009

Bo's Grill—Saanichton—2138 Keating Cross Road—250•544•8269

Bo's Burger

(add $1.50 for cheese and $1.00 for bacon)

Sometimes beloved dogs die. Sometimes you pay tribute to their memory by naming a family style restaurant after them: thus is the case with Bo's Grill. Stuck smack dab in a Keatings Cross Road strip mall is this average diner, dedicated to what looks like a husky cross with a friendly disposition. My first dog was a collie/german shepherd cross named Beau, and I felt a certain tacit connection to Bo's Grill when I sauntered inside. The last time I cried really hard was when Beau died, and I know how important a dog can be. Our family chose to honour Beau by burying her on a ranch with a humble wooden headstone. The Bo's Grill Family chose to honour its dog with a burger that looks like something out of the Wendy's "Where's the Beef Commercial".

As you can see in the first picture—the bun:burger ratio is completely out of whack here. The bun hangs out almost an inch from the edge of burger, which is strongly seasoned with black pepper. The menu refers to the over-peppered patty as "spiced to perfection"—a statement that is true if you hold your uncle's backyard BBQ fare as the gold standard of burgerdom. The patty is the size of a small hockey puck, and approximately 2/3 as thick. It's not particularly juicy, but not dry and crumbly either.

This burger would probably be relatively pleasant, if not for the horrible way it's constructed. There are roadside native jewelry stands constructed with more attention to detail than the Bo's Burger. A child's size patty, and condiments that lightly brush the bottom bun like the wings of a fly on a farmer's forearm combine to make a very meh tasting meal. At least Bo's has a waitress that's a Leafs fan. Maybe they should move her to the kitchen, because whatever Canucks fan is in there now doesn't have a fucking clue how to build a burger.

VERDICT: A patty that fits its bun and more condiment generosity: two simple changes needed to make the Bo's Burger a satisfying meal.


Anonymous said...

I guess they couldn't cut it with burgers or anything else as I see the place is closed with a "business for sale" sign in the window.

I LOVE YOU said...


gg said...


Anonymous said...

I am sorry that Bo's didn't work out, but the first rule for small business is location, location, location. It was a terrible location, stuck in a dingy corner of a dumpy, run down strip mall next to a liquor store. The entrance was forboding too - like stepping through a space ship air lock. The decor looked like it came from an ancient Calgary Stampede. People want to eat someplace FRESH and SPACIOUS and INVITING!

Keating Cross Road desperately needs a good restaurant, but it will take a smart designer and a fair whack of capital and a lot of patience to put up a new building and attractive street frontage. Central Saanich Council had better get on the ball, because a lot of business is leaving the area!

For that matter, it sure would be nice to get a Tim Horton's on the north side of Keating!