Saturday, September 27, 2008

Pescatores Seafood and Grill — 614 Humboldt — 250-385-4512 —

Oscar Burger
(lunch only)

My cousin was hyping the Oscar to me pretty hard about a month ago. Given Pescatores' status as tourist spot, as opposed to local haunt, I was slightly sceptical of the place. I generally trust endorsements given by family, and crab and Bearnaise is a pretty dope combo, but I wasn't going to get too excited about this burger. I've been cheated by lunch burgers before and I wasn't going to get red-riding-hooded again. I came in expecting an average burger, and I think that's about what I got.

The Oscar Burger is not for purists: the crab and Bearnaise sauce pwn the burger pretty hard as far as flavour goes. I like crab, but if I'm eating a burger I want to taste beef. The beef takes an unsettling backseat here, and although I appreciate the moist, flavourful crab Pescatores uses — it ultimately becomes way too dominant.

Pescatores receives the majority of its meat and veggies from North Douglas/Sysco which means you get a pre-made patty with this burger. Not only is the burger pre-made, but given the lack of juices, I have to assume Pescatores orders frozen patties instead of fresh. The decision to go frozen is partly, if not largely, to blame for this burger's lack of flavour balance.

Criticisms aside, there are some things this burger does right. The decision to use Bearnaise as the only condiment (and to tell the veges to fuck off) was definitely the right choice for this burger. It might seem like an obvious decision, but as Floyd's Diner has shown us — it's not uncommon for cooks to treat burgers like Christmas trees and start hanging as much crap as possible on them.

The only other thing to mention is the bun, which was a rather crusty sesame seed kaiser number. Despite the overt crustiness, I actually enjoyed this bun a fair bit. It complimented the rest of the burger nicely, and didn't taste half bad either. Unfortunately for Pescatores though, the overall nature of this burger is very laboratory-esque.

VERDICT: Keep experimenting Pescatores, you don't have it yet.

No comments: