Saturday, July 19, 2008

Jan's Cafe — Hornby Island — 5875 Central Road — 250-335-1487

Super Burger

Sporting a resume that highlights probably at least half the cafes and restuarants on Hornby, Jan Kennedy is a woman that likely knows a thing or two about the challenges of being an island restauranteur.

When she bought Jan's Cafe (originally "The Joy of Cooking Cafe") it was little more than a tent on the grounds of the old Hornby Island Co-Op. Nearly twenty years later, it's a rather inviting little cafe which appears to be as popular with locals as it is with visitors.

I have no idea how difficult it is to find a beef supplier on Hornby, but I imagine it isn't easy to find an affordable one. Whatever the reason (lack of an affordable supplier, or otherwise) Jan's Cafe has decided to use frozen patties for its burgers. As is often the case when using frozen patties, the Jan's Super Burger ends up being rather dry and flavourless.

Jan's blahzay beef stands in rather stark contrast to the rest of the Super Burger's elements. It's obvious that Jan's has tried to create a burger that in some way reflects the island lifestyle. The bun is multigrain (and suprisingly fresh and moist), the top half of the bun is adorned with sprouts (which are also rather fresh), and the cheddar cheese is sprinkled with basil (if I remember correctly).

Jan's Super Burger is much like a Hornby Island Tourist: trying to escape the modern white-bread world, but invariably remaining a part of it. The Super Burger strives to be different, but ignores the most important factor in making a burger stand out: the meat. You can pile the sprouts mile-high, but you'll never rise above the shitty sports bars if you're using frozen patties.

VERDICT: Two patties of total mediocrity. There aren't a lot of options on Hornby, but there's probably somewhere with better burgers than Jan's (although their hashbrowns are pretty good).


Gaetano said...

burger was dull. the bun was gay, and the cheese wasnt even that flavourful in my opinion. they need to drop the whole wheat act, and get with the program... white bread is superior. who are people kidding with this whole wheat shenanigan

Anonymous said...

Flat , tasteless, cheap food at high prices. Only open in the summer. Locals don't eat there. It's known as "fleece-da-tourista"

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Anonymous said...

How about an updated posting? These opinions are 5 years old!